LauraApr 25, 202315 minChile's Far SouthThe ferry from Caleta Tortel left at 11:00pm. Over the course of my trip, I had developed a deep mistrust of scheduled times in Latin...
LauraApr 10, 20239 minCarretera Austral, Part 3: Cerro Castillo to Caleta TortelAfter climbing up to Lago Cerro Castillo, I was sore all over. As it turns out, cycling and hiking don’t really use the same muscle...
LauraMar 29, 202313 minThe Carretera Austral, Part 2: Puyuhuapi to Villa Cerro CastilloMorning in Puyuhuapi dawned dark and rainy. One could almost be forgiven for not knowing it was morning at all. I had an important...
LauraMar 17, 20237 minThe Carretera Austral, Part 1: Puerto Montt to PuyuhuapiAh, the Carretera Austral. Ruta 7. Patagonia’s famous road trip, shrouded in an infamous past. 1200 kilometres of mountains, glaciers,...